When in doubt, size up: why and when

The single most useful piece of sizing advice for new reverse-haul buyers: when you're uncertain, size up one step. The math is simple — a slightly large garment is wearable; a slightly small one isn't. Here's when to apply this rule and when to break it.

Why most regrets are too-small

Four forces conspire to make buyers under-size when ordering from China:

1. Chinese label sizing runs smaller than Western labels (see china size charts). Your usual L might be a Chinese XL.
2. Most cotton fabrics shrink 3-7% on first wash. Sellers usually don't account for this in their measurements.
3. Streetwear cuts are oversized by design — ordering your usual size in an oversized cut sometimes still reads small once you see the dropped shoulder you expected.
4. You can return a too-large item more easily than a too-small one — too-large can be tailored, returned, or resold; too-small often just stays unworn.

When to size up

Apply the rule in these situations:

You're between two sizes on the seller's measurement chart. Pick the larger one.

The item is cotton-heavy and unwashed. Hoodies, sweatshirts, joggers, raw denim. Plan for 3-7% shrinkage.

You want the silhouette to read oversized (Essentials / Yeezy / Korean cut style). Ordering your usual size in an oversized cut sometimes still fits like a TTS hoodie.

The seller has no measurement chart and only label sizing. Default to size up — it's safer.

The fabric is structured (heavy fleece, sherpa, technical outerwear). Structured fabrics don't drape; they hold their shape. A snug fit becomes uncomfortable fast.

You're tall (6'0" or taller). Chinese label "large" is often designed for a 5'9" Asian frame. Sleeve and body length both run short.

When NOT to size up

Sneakers. Putian factories generally match retail sizing. Don't size up by default — measure your foot length and match the insole. See sneaker sizing from Chinese sellers for exceptions like Yeezy 350.

Jeans where waist is honest. Most Chinese denim sellers use US-style waist sizing (28, 30, 32 inches). Order your usual waist. Length is the variable, not waist.

Tailored items (button-up shirts, blazers). Sizing up loses structure — you get bulk, not better fit. Order to your measurements.

Items already labeled oversized with generous measurement charts. If the chart says "size M = 60cm chest" and your normal hoodie is 56cm, the M already accounts for oversize. Don't go to L unless you want very dramatic.

Athletic wear meant to compress. Compression shorts, performance leggings, fitted tees. These need to fit close to work as designed.

How much to size up

For most contemporary streetwear: one step (Western M to Chinese L if you'd normally take Chinese M).

For highly oversized cuts (Yeezy Gap style, balloon-fit pieces): one step from your usual oversized size.

For structured outerwear (coats, jackets): one step in chest, but measure shoulder width carefully — too-large shoulders read sloppy.

Never size up more than one step. Two steps creates a different garment, not a more comfortable version of the same garment.

What to do if you've already ordered wrong

If the item is still at the agent warehouse (QC photos in, not yet shipped internationally): ask your agent to message the seller about an exchange. Many sellers will exchange for a different size; you pay domestic re-ship within China (CNY 10-20). Easy fix.

If the item has already shipped internationally: see how to request a re-shoot or refund. Most international returns aren't cost-effective. Often the best move is to resell the wrong-size item to a friend or local buyer at near cost, then order the correct size.

A small confession

Even experienced buyers get sizing wrong sometimes. The cuts evolve, sellers change measurement methods, fabric weights shift between batches. The size-up rule isn't about being perfect — it's about staying on the safe side of mistakes.